Religious fervor with a pinch of flamenco
HOLY WEEK IN SEVILLE
BARCELONA, EL PARÍS DEL SIGLO XVIII
WHERE TO EAT
WRITE DOWN YOUR COMMENTS
A cofradía
For those who do not may know the meaning of cofradía (or hermandad) is a religious brotherhood made up of faithful Catholics who meet to worship Christ, the Virgin or other saints, as well as Jesus Christ’s Passion. Cofradías can be sacramental, glory or penitential. The last ones are those that can be seen holding an image or set of images set atop a moveable float of wood dedicated to the Passion of Christ during Holy Week in Seville. These images are known as pasos, and there are three types: the first one would be a sculpted scene of the Passion, or an allegorical scene, known as a Misterio (mystery); the second an image of Christ, called the Crucificado (the crucified); and the third an image of the Virgin Mary mourning the death of his son, known as a Dolorosa. These religious images can measure up to 2.40 meters wide by 5.5 meters long and are decorated with an overwhelming amount of flowers and chandeliers.
A paso of Jesus Christ's Passion
But who transport such a large and heavy structure? The costaleros (literally "sack men"), a team of men who carry the weight of the pasos on their shoulders and neck, protecting them with a garment called costal (sack). As they are all inside the structure and hidden from the external view by a curtain, the paso seems to move by itself. The costaleros must take the images through the streets of Seville, a path known as the Carrera Oficial (the Official Path). This tour consists of a common route for all the cofradías, beginning in Campana Square, continuing along the Serpis Street, San Francisco Square and Constitution Avenue, ending at the cathedral.
Costaleros taking a paso through the streets of Seville
Therefore, almost anywhere in the center of the Andalusian capital you will be able to see the parade of the brotherhoods, hear the sound caused by the shoes of the costaleros, or be moved by the chant of a saeta to the passage of the cofradías. If you have the chance, stop a moment to listen to this improvised flamenco-style song, offered by individuals in the crowd or from a balcony.
Saeta's chant
The clothes of some women during this religious week may catch your attention. The mantilla is the traditional dress worn on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday by devout women to attend the church, mourning the death of Jesus Christ. The outfit consists of the lace mantle, stiffened by shell or another material, and a black dress, usually mid-leg, with black shoes. It is expected for the woman to hold and show a rosary.
Women wearing mantillas in Seville
Holy Week in Seville is a celebration of International Tourist Interest and, as you can imagine, crowds of people flow the streets. The best way to enjoy this celebration is having a plan, setting the time and place of the processions you do not want to miss in order not to be in the middle of a bulla, the crowds that occur when the cofradías are nearby. The best way to escape from a bulla is never go against, but be dragged and, above all, have patience.
DAYS OF PASSION
Dolorosa's image
Palm Sunday. Holy Week officially begins on Palm Sunday. From the neighborhood of the Porvenir comes the first cofradía, La Paz, which is usually the most emotive, as it starts the processions. It commemorates the triumphal entry of Jesus into Jerusalem as "servant" of God's Word.
Easter Monday. On this day Seville commemorates the work of evangelization of Jesus Christ and remembers scenes from the life of Jesus.
Holy Tuesday. Similar to the previous day in which Jesus continues his mission of evangelization.
Ash Wednesday. The images show a Jesus who knows his end is coming soon.
Maundy Thursday. On this day Jesus lived the Last Supper, where he instituted the Eucharist and washed the feet of his disciples. After the betrayal of Judas, Jesus is arrested and tried before Caiaphas. During this day the cofradías explicitly stop in the Eucharistic memorial of the cathedral.
The Madrugá. Starting a little while after midnight into Good Friday, and lasting sometimes until midday, the Madruga (dawn) is the high point of the processions in Seville. All the brotherhoods stop at the Eucharistic memorial of the cathedral.
Good Friday. On the afternoon of Good Friday the passion and death of Jesus are commemorated. On this day, thousands of people come to the Holy Office of the churches and the flags fly at half mast.
Holy Saturday. During Holy Saturday, after death, Jesus is carried to the grave. The rest of the day consists on waiting to the Resurrection.
Easter Sunday. This is a day of joy for the Resurrection of Jesus Christ.
JOAN SERRA MINGOT
Tears, religious fervor and great devotion. All these feelings have been emerging in Seville during Holy Week since 134 years ago. Each Palm Sunday, the Andalusian capital welcomes the beginning of the Holy Week’s celebrations. After a year of reflection and preparation, the cofradías, or religious brotherhoods, accompany Jesus in his agony and resurrection during a festival that each year attracts thousands of tourists.
Holy Week in Seville is a curious festival for visitors, but not exactly cheerful. Quite the opposite, you can hear more people crying than laughing, especially among the believers and devotees of the Christian religion. The traditional event, which lasts seven days, commemorates the passion and death of Jesus Christ with solemn processions performed by cofradías to the Cathedral of Seville, between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday, a week later.
SEVILLA IN NUMBERS
Population: 700. 169 inhab.
Density: 4972. 79 hab./km²
Surface: 140,8 km²
